What is it that truly defines a fishing hotel? A rich fly fishing history or perhaps the quality of fishing on offer that makes the anglers keep flooding back?
Sadly true fishing hotels are a lot thinner on the ground than they used to be and there could be a number of reasons for this but a few are still fighting the rear guard and keeping the tradition of offering fishing and accommodation alive, whilst still moving with modern times in what is an increasingly competitive market place.
Sitting in a commanding position overlooking the Usk in Wales, Gliffaes is one of the few last outposts calling themselves a fishing hotel. With four beats of varied fishing for both the trout, sea trout and salmon angler to enjoy, I was there to see what was on offer.
I met up with the hotel’s resident guide and instructor, Frank Williams who filled me in with how the day would pan out. Despite me being happy to just carry the camera and take some pictures, Frank insisted I brought a rod as he was keen for me to try my luck on an Usk trout.
He showed me the hotel first and I immediately got the fishing hotel vibe when I walked through the main entrance decorated in fish print wallpaper. These are the things us anglers notice and what sets us at ease and makes us feel we have chosen the right place. Photographs and catch books reinforce this.
The river is a lot larger than the rivers I fish in Devon and the long riffles and pockets reminded me of a stream I might be fishing in the American Mid West.
As I watched Frank carefully wade out to where he was going to fish I was mentally breaking down each little section and how I would like to fish it. Frank is a big exponent of long, light rods and long leaders and seeing the water I can see why. Getting as long a drag free drift as possible is critical when there are so many currents that can play havoc with your fly and create the dreaded micro drag that we don’t always see but you can be sure the fish do.
I watched Frank work up the seam of a run and where there was a slight bend I felt sure he would connect. It looked perfect and I shouted as much to him but he hadn’t heard me above the noise of the river but said pretty much the same when he got out.
We headed upstream to a pool he likes to fish and Frank pointed out a rock in the current that diverts the strong flow enough for a fish to sit behind. This again reminded me of a spot I’d fish for rainbows in the US. True to his word Frank lifted and was in to a fish. Not a big one by Usk standards but it was nice to see a hunch pay off. I say hunch but this is why hiring a guide who is on the water every day can make a difference.
Large Dark Olives started to flitter off of the water’s surface along with a few Brook Duns. We also spotted some light midges hatching too. These are the ones we can often forget about in our haste to tie on a LDO and we sat by a pool waiting to see if we saw a rising fish. On cue we saw one towards the tail of the pool, just off of the main flow. We watched some more and it looked like a “oncer” that Frank decided to cover fishing the duo of a dry on the dropper and nymph on the point. Despite covering the fish it didn’t take but a small one hit the Klinkhammer at the second attempt at the head of the pool. A couple of casts later and another was on, a bigger fish.
It looked like things were going to happen but as quickly as the trickle hatches start they can finish and we decided to head upstream and fish some more pools. The duo was the winning combination but interestingly the dry was out fishing the nymph. I even strung up a rod and fished a dry sparkle dun that had a small fish taking a look and a better one that I failed to connect with. Not planning to fish I’d thrown a rod into the car that was an 8ft 4” 2wt that I felt was just a little short for really good line control. Next time I’ll pack a 9 or 10fter.
Lunch was back at the hotel for a beef sandwich and some shared chips. I’m no restaurant critic but I always check to see if the chips are from a bag or home cut. These were good and in irregular, hand cut shape.
We talked fishing and the techniques for the Hotel water. Frank firmly believes you need to be flexible with fly choice for each pool and he will change weight and size of fly accordingly. If the hatch looks like it is getting going he might still fish a duo but may switch to a lighter nymph or even a spider. These are the sorts of things that really do get more fish on the end of the line.
Patience also cropped up in conversation and we talked about time spent watching a pool can pay dividends as it had earlier.
The afternoon was more of a typical early season day with small windows of opportunity that didn’t stay open for long but Frank elbowed through them and made them count.
I liked the water and the variety of it. There is such a good mixture that allows the angler to fish a variety of different techniques and it is big enough that you walk away feeling you could have covered some more.
As I said at the beginning, fishing hotels are not as thick on the ground as they once were but those that have stood the test of time and I hope will continue to open their doors for many years to come. Gliffaes is one.
For more on Gliffaes please visit their Website
For guiding on the Gliffaes water & Wye and Usk Foundation: Frank Williams Website