Mark Krukowski proves that if you really want to you can leave central London and be on a wild trout stream in Devon for a day's fishing
It’s 7am Saturday morning and my alarm has just gone off. I have a train to catch and nothing gets me up as quickly as the prospect of a day’s fishing.
Ablutions complete and two cups of coffee later I grab my roller case carefully packed the evening before with rod and reel, waders, boots and hip pack, net and wading jacket and I’m pretty much good to go.
It’s now getting on for 8am and luckily my nearest tube station is only a couple of minutes walk away. I’m soon on the jubilee line heading for Baker Street – a few steps across the platform at Baker Street and then onto a north bound Bakerloo to Paddington arriving around 8.30am.
I grab my tickets from the machine, another coffee and a bit of breakfast. There’s about 30 minutes before my train departs just after 9am. Once on the train I settle down with the latest copy of T&S or one of Gierach’s books to while away the two-hour journey to Exeter St David’s.
Buy the tickets online as they are always cheaper than paying at the station on the day. A super off-peak return from Paddington to Eggesford is about £85 when booked in advance.
The connecting train at Exeter leaves just 10 or so minutes after arrival which can be a little worrying at times if the train’s running late but the connection is straightforward as the Barnstaple train is simply the other side of the same platform so thankfully there’s no running around. I’ve had to dash across the platform only just making the connection on more than one occasion – and one time I missed it!
The final destination is Eggesford and that leg of the journey takes around 30 minutes from Exeter arriving just a few minutes past midday. Coming out at Eggesford Station I find myself right on the banks of the glorious river Taw and just a five minute walk to the Fox and Hounds Hotel who manage the fishing rights on that section of the river. £30 buys you a day ticket with five miles of river at your disposal.
Always book the beat in advance as Hotel residents have priority and look to get beats 6 and 7 as they are the ones easily walkable to from the Hotel.
It’s just gone half past midday and, having changed into my waders and threaded up a rod, I step into the river – heaven!
I now have about 4 ½ hours of brown trout fishing in one of the most beautiful parts of the country. The Taw has just the most gorgeous hard fighting wild brownies with most averaging between 6 and 8 inches - a 10 or 12 incher being an exceptional fish.
There is always something very special about this part of Devon for me. Maybe it’s the kingfishers that dart about along the river or the occasional otter or mink on the bank that I spot but this place always stirs up very fond memories and a longing to go back.
Fishing here is pretty good and, weather and water conditions permitting, I always seem to manage a few which makes the day that much more special. A duo setup with a small tungsten beaded pheasant tail is all that’s usually needed for a little success and once I see a few rises then it’s off with the nymph and a dry will do the business. Here something like an 8’ 4wt is all that you need, certainly no heavier. Wading is easy with water levels ankle to thigh deep.
As 5pm comes around I have to start thinking about heading back. The train home leaves Eggesford around 5.40pm so I’ll need to start walking back to the station by 5.30pm.
The journey home usually is a bit longer, in part due to the wait at Exeter St David’s for the connecting train to London. This is where I take the opportunity to grab a kebab from the van outside the station. It has 4 stars for its Scores On Doors – can you believe it? Anyway, that’s dinner sorted.
Hunger quashed I get onto the London bound train at just before 7pm where a coffee with a shot of whiskey settles me back comfortably into where I left off with Gierach’s adventures for the journey home which takes around 2 ¾ hours to Paddington. I get in around 9.40pm and after 30 minutes on the tube I’m finally home around 10.15pm.
It’s been a fairly long day but I’m smiling from ear to ear! Happy fishing.