Allan Liddle tells us about a trip he made to the Orkneys this year
Straddling the junction between the cold waters of the North Sea and the white crested tops of the Atlantic Ocean, just beyond the notorious rip tides of the Pentland Firth, lie the scattered windswept islands of Orkney. From this description you’d be forgiven if the picture of a cold, bleak, desolate unfertile land sprang to mind, where nothing grew and times were tough, forgiven but completely wrong.
Windswept it may be (and famous for it) and most certainly cold at times, Orkney’s not bleak, and far from unfertile, offering some excellent arable land, famous for the high quality of is cattle, totally surrounded (as islands generally are) by rich seas, no this scattering of green islands is anything but unforgiving, harsh at times, but not desolate. (That said the wind knows how to blow up here though.)
An Archaeologists dream with un-investigated (and without doubt unfound) finds throughout, mixed in with more established and world famous ‘digs’ all just under the surface. ‘Scratch Orkney and it bleeds Archaeology’, goes the local saying. This, the bird life, the views, the abundance of other places of interest, the food, the drink, not to mention the people, all combine to place it high on the list of ‘Must Visit,’ locations.
But that said, this is also, or at least should be, very high on the list of anglers ‘must fish’ destinations as Orkney is also home to some of Scotland’s finest trout lochs, these islands truly are ‘An Anglers Paradise,’ enjoyed by generations of local and visiting anglers alike and controlled, managed, and given all round TLC by one of the countries’ best Angling Clubs, Orkney Trout Fishing Association, or OTFA for short. Overseeing all this isn’t easy, but OTFA are keen, dedicated and pretty good at it, after all if they get this wrong then it’s a case of speed bonny boat across the sea to find a replacement, so you could say these guys have a bit of a vested interest in keeping everything ‘tip top.’ Running a re-stocking programme utilising local brood stock to help seed low stock ‘virgin’ waters both on mainland Orkney, as well as selected outer isles to further enhance stock as well as enhance the quality of angling available all from their hatchery base on the banks of Swanney Loch.
Not only do OTFA work hard on the resident trout in the lochs, but the seeding programme extends to some of the small streams throughout to try and ensure healthy numbers of Sea-trout (personally I think it would be much better to refer to all our sea-trout as sea-going browns, would clear a lot of confusion).
These fish have undergone a wee bit of a renaissance over the past ten years or so, (coincidentally in parallel to the downturn in local salmon aqua culture, but despite the obvious we’re still ‘reliably’ informed there’s no direct link?) and although nowhere near the halcyon days of yore, in terms of more recent years they’re doing ok. Anglers who apply themselves to the ‘Salt Water Silvers’ can enjoy something truly remarkable, and there’s much more to this than the basic turn up and chuck lures at them. Tide, timing, weather, seaweed, safety, weather, location, tackle, weather (yup truly the big factor in all this), all conspire against the angler, but the power, quality, surroundings, anticipation and excitement all make it more than a worthy exercise. Grown men have been known to go weak at the knees at the prospect of it all.
That said it’s for the quality of the freshwater fishing that sets many more anglers pulses to beat a bit quicker, accounting for many, myself included, to ensure these islands remain firmly on the ‘Annual Pilgrimage’ list.
So what of these waters? Well quality abounds, access is very easy and the choice immense, far too much choice that a short visit does them anything approaching justice (a lifetime wouldn’t really do this, but that’s one of the fundamental rules of angling is it not?) but waters that are not overly huge (although some are measured in miles, so they’re not insignificant), or vast in number to overwhelm the visiting angler. At this point it would be easy to try and compare Orkney to other locations, but this would neither be productive, nor fair, I’m not talking about other destinations here, I’m talking about Orkney which to me at least is pretty unique.
Swanney Loch (or the ‘Black Lagoon’ as locals have taken to calling it) is the first of the ‘Big Six’ mainland waters I’ll mention, not placing them in any particular favourite order, I’ve simply mentioned here first because I have to start somewhere. Peat tinged (hence the Black Lagoon bit), skerry strewn, heather bordered and fully of fishy features, Swanney has a reputation of offering better sized fish than its neighbours. Generally but not always. Wading is a problem, stones are very slippery and the broken hole filled skerries, the feature of great fishing, are almost invisible in the dark water making the experience difficult (but not impossible), however there are better features hidden out of reach of the shore based angler you really need to be afloat for and it’s for this reason I much prefer to tackle Swanney ‘off the bank, which in these islands 99.9% of the time means float tube. If ever a cluster of waters were designed for the ‘bag’ then Orkney would be the blue print. Despite all Swanney has to offer, there are those times you’d swear there wasn’t a fish in the place, but when it does all come right, well there’s that weak kneed feeling again.
Neighbouring Boardhouse and Hundland Lochs are amazingly different from Swanney, not for the quality of the fishing, but despite only being a couple of miles away neither carry the same colour. Both offer different characteristics to each other as well with Hundland more skerry strewn (skerry; the name for the boulder strewn sunken or semi-submerged ‘islands’ the Orkney and Shetland in particular, and Northern Scotland in general is famous for. In the often found big waves from the often experienced big winds, or ‘good drying breeze’ as locals call it, you might want to refer to them as ‘Scaries’ not Skerries.) More like a smaller version of Harray Loch, Hundland has open drifts, but I much prefer to hunt amongst the boulders, almost stalking the fish especially when the weather and feeding conditions mean the trout are ‘on the stones.’ In fact it’s this style of angling that’s high amongst the reasons I return year on year.
Boardhouse is more open, yes there are skerries, but these are few. It does have plenty weed beds though and fish love these just as much so the anglers approach is slightly different, in fact it resembles Caithness jewel Watten more than neighbouring Swanney or Hundland. Again better from afloat, it can produce off the bank though and, like Hundland, this is much easier than on Swanney, you can see where you’re going and the stones not so slippery for a start.
Stenness is big and brackish and dour, more like an inland lagoon with millions of gallons of seawater entering every tide via its short outflow to the sea, so fish here tend not to behave like they do in the other lochs. Flashy bright attractor flies work better here for fish that locals have been known to refer to as Orkney Gold. Wading again is uncomfortable thanks to the brackish water, the stones underfoot are again very slippery, but again it’s float tube friendly. Well I say that but with a head of now resident seals who have been known to pop up right next to the unsuspecting float-tuber, let’s say if the sea-trout fishing makes you go weak at the knees, you can only guess what reaction you can get to this, but fair to say it involves missing heart beats and bowel movements. Sea-trout also feature regularly on the catches here, just to add to the attraction.
Kirbuster is the more overlooked of the Big Six, simply due to reputation of being an easy water. Easier yes with free rising fish found all over but like every water it has its moments, however big baskets are the rule not the exception, and for this locals refer to it as a Beginners Water, a term I dislike as I feel it cheapens the loch and leaves the angler feeling almost guilty about fishing it. Free rising hard hitting fish are the loch’s attraction and there’s nothing wrong with a visit or two, even if it is just to get the confidence back if the other waters aren’t ‘playing.’ Highland in appearance, Kirkbuster wouldn’t look out of place in Sutherland, attractive and forgiving, in fact it’s more a testament to the quality of the neighbouring lochs opposed to the reputation of this one that Kirbuster isn’t fished as hard as it could be.
All that said, it’s not just the above waters, the other cracking smaller waters I haven’t even mentioned or the general fishing style I love so much, the people, place, wildlife, pace of life and the rest that makes me come back here year on year, all this is just part of the recipe. There’s a loch here that simply put is my all-time favourite, Harray Loch. Big, open, broken skerry and boulder strewn, weed bed dotted, soft, gentle and kind at times, harsh and unforgiving at others, it’s this loch; more than any other that draws me to Orkney. Big waves, tube battered flies ‘ambushed’ by fish who like to spend much of their time airborne during the fight, the fishing here can be spectacular, but equally soft ripple surface feeding targets probably make up more in terms of ‘red letter day’ sport here for me. Never without some form of feature to work be it working my favourite approach of two dries full arm width apart over the top of the boulders, or along the drop offs, or over the dark holes in the series, along the weed beds, over wind lanes, onto fence points as they enter the water (there’s a fish at the end of every fence) amongst the feeding birds, or downwind of the rummaging cattle kicking up a fly or two, there’s always something to aim for on Harray, even if it isn’t the ripples of rising fish. And if they’re not on the top? Shrimp, daphnia, buzzers, nymphs, they’re all there, all offering a different fishing approach, keeping the choices and options open for the angler.
And if the unthinkable should happen and you get ‘bored’? Simply grab your stuff and head for another loch, UDAL Norse Law still applies to the fishing in Orkney (and Shetland) so yes it’s free. Anglers are encouraged to join the local associations, in this case the afore-mentioned OTFA, for a mere £20 or so. Personally I think it’s a very small price to pay to ensure quality of fishing for generations to come. That said the easiest way of ensuring this is not to be greedy with the fish and show restraint with the priest. Nothing wrong with a brace for tea, especially if you cart the smoker along, mmm delicious, but equally nothing wrong with a quick snap from the digital camera should you so desire, and back they go. This is especially relevant with the better fish, of even more so with the ‘trophies’ 3lb or above. Just think how big these fish could get given the chance?
And if mainland Orkney isn’t enough for you? Then grab a ferry to some of the outer islands, OTFA gives hints and tips on the best of these, otherwise it’s a case of self-exploring, I’m not going to tell you, well not just now at any rate. No that, as they say, is a story for another day.
Orkney Trout Angling Association website: www.orkneytroutfishing.co.uk
Getting There: Pentland Ferries website: www.pentlandferries.co.uk; Northlink Ferries website: www.northlinkferries.co.uk; Pentland Ferries offer the quicker, cheaper crossing from Gills Bay Caithness to St Margret’s Hope South Ronaldsay Orkney which means a bit of a drive up to the lochs via Kirkwall, Northlink follows the more traditional route from Scrabster Caithness to Stromness and the shorter drive, all simply down to personal choice.
Accommodation: There’s an abundance of accommodation on Orkney from the famous angling mecca of The Merkister Hotel standing on the shores of Harray Loch, through several other hotels throughout the islands, guest houses, self-catering cottages, self-catering caravans, B&B’s, bunkhouses, hostels and campsites all to suit your budget and choice. Recently our crowd have stayed in the Birsay Outdoor Centre (excellent facilities and plenty room for a bigger visiting group), but I can also recommend Keniela Bed and Breakfast located by Harray Village, or for self-catering Crantit House Kirkwall or the excellent Norton Cottage Dounby. All of them can be found using the Orkney Tourist website www.visitorkney.co.uk
Flies: Always such a personal choice but if you are heading up here then I wouldn’t be without;
Hedgehogs size 10-14 Natural hares ear, claret, olive and yellow, Hoppers, s12-14, black & red, olive, yellow, claret, nat hares ear, Emerger dries s12-16, black, claret, olive, Snatchers, olive, claret, black, and the more traditional Kate McLaren, Soldier Palmer, Greenwell’s, Wickham’s, Loch Ordie, Zulu, Connemara Black, Bumbles, Sooty Olive, Dunkeld, Invicta’s (especially silver) all in all the ‘Usual Suspects’ for wild trout, just have a few in the size 10 range for those big wave days, and as a top tip, Orkney fish love deer hair so Hogs s 10-14 (the quintessential Orkney trout fly of recent times) and muddlers s10-14 should most certainly be in your fly box. In all far too much choice to list here, but I hope to follow this up with a feature on my more personal and successful Orkney patterns next time.
Allan Liddle is a writer, photographer and fly fishing instructor. See more from him HERE